Making a Tape and Tee Shirt Pattern
Making a Tape and Tee
Shirt Pattern
Steps to creating a custom doublet or bodice pattern with the tape and T-shirt
method
1. With the subject wearing a regular tee shirt wrap 2 to 3” wide tape
around their torso starting near the waist. Continue just barely overlapping
until just under the arms picture 1-4.
2. If the tee shirt has a large neck you might have to add some pieces of doubled
over tape as shown in picture 5, to fill in so that there is some to tape over
all the way to the neckline.
3. Continue taping across the upper chest in the front and back photos 7&8
4. Tape below the waistline as shown in photo 8 (in clear tape) in the approximate
shape of your finished doublet.
5. With a felt pen draw the historical seam lines that you will want. It
is best to have a reference book such Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion
in hand for this step. It is difficult to see in the photo but I also marked
the waistline
including the center point, neckline and armhole.
6. Carefully cut the subject out of the tee shirt Photo 9.
7. Photo 11 cut one side up (right) and keep the other side (left) for reference.
8. Trace the pieces onto drafting paper and add seam allowance. I use 1/2”.
Always try this pattern on cheep (1 to 2 dollar a yard) fabric of similar weight
to your finished garment. As a rule, it will need to be taken in a little, depending
on how fitted the garment will be ie. a tight fitting women’s bodice vs.
a looser man’s doublet over a blousy chemise.

Thanks to my subject, Gordon and my taper, Annalise.