The kirtle is a simple "A" line dress as in the 1500's this gown is faked. That means that the fancy fabric is only where it shows. On the lower part of the sleeves and down the front of the dress. I always like to add detail at hem line. This kirtle hem band is made from a bias strip of fabric that is pressed so that it follows the curve of the hem. There are the same tabs as the sleeve and there is a narrow tube of olive silk that has been coutched on with matching embroidery floss.