Close-ups of Surcoat Flaired Collar & Ruff
The Surcoat collar is made up of 10 sections, all of them being hourglass shaped. I developed this collar by modifying a pattern from the Spanish Tailor Book (reference else where on my site). The Ruff is make from cotton cutwork lace that was first gathered and then cartridge pleated and then sewn onto a band. It rest a top the Kirtle collar, which is edged with strips of silk that are folded over to make tabs that are at 45 degree angle and overlap each other.