This costume started with the purchase of a small remnant of machine-embroidered heavy linen with a very period motif. There was a slight problem, the color. It was 1960's lime green and white. I figured, I could just dye it. The background fabric took the dye well it ended up an earthy rose color but the embroidery took none of the die. I discovered that the reverse looked very much better, it had a lot less of the bright green yarn. So I got some fabric markers and touch up the bright green with a rust colored pen and I think it is now a decent color, olive green. The Surcoat is some what modified from the pattern in Janet Arnold. Instead of frog closures it has metal buttons (JHB) over standard modern frogs. And the sleeves are somewhat different as well as the back, which has a yoke. The ruff is made from some vintage real metallic shell bobbin lace. It was made without a ruff board so that I could match up the shells.