Note that the necklace has one short strand and one very long strand with a brooch in the middle. This as very period. The chemise made by Rhonda Griffith has a high standing collar with a pleated bobbin lace edging. It is shown open here which would signify an unmarried Lady. The trim was made by weaving 1/4 " grosgrain ribbon through silver metallic cords that were sewn back and forth across opening between the edge trim with the pearls. This was the only way that I could come up with a way to have trim that narrowed at the waist. Ribbon trim can't do that.