This photo shows a hoop skirt in the shape made popular in the Spanish Court and adopted in the English Court 1570 ± 5 years. The bum roll is small, in later years much larger ones where in vogue. If I where making a Spanish Court dress from this period I would not use a bum roll at all. The skirt is made from heavy cotton cut into four gores. These are sewn together (I used a flatfell seam) and parallel rows of twill tape are sewn on with openings so that hoop wire can be added. This hoop has a row of cotton bobbin lace at the bottom. This a working hoop skirt the reason that you see so many gathers in the skirt is because I don't have to where a petticoat over it to eliminate the hoop lines. Period hoop skirts do not have gathers. Check out Janet Arnold to see how it's suppose to be done.