The French hood was most likely introduced to England by Mary Tudor (Queen Elizabeth’s aunt) the Queen-Dowager of France about 1515. It became popular when Anne Boleyn (Queen Elizabeth’s mother) gained prominence in the English Court upon her return from France in the 1530’s. It continued to be popular for the next half Century. During Mary’s & Elizabeth’s reign it was the most popular upper class womens headdress through out Northern Europe.
There were many varied shapes. Most likely every hat maker had his favorite way of putting these hats together. They often had a jeweled band called a Parure or Billiments at the top edge of the arch (Coronet). These made them heavy therefore, they had complicated caps that were wore under them to help support the weight.
The colors historical used for French hoods were black, white and red. With the Hood almost always being black velvet or black silk.