This costume was made with three shades wool. The medium gray fabric is just extra light gray fabric dyed with a weak black dye. I used cotton for the chemise. Linen might have been a better choice (more period) but, linen is expensive. That is just reversed from how it was in the 1500's. Cotton was imported and very expensive and linen was home grown and reasonable. It did come in different qualities from course and cheep to fine and more expensive.